More about the Vineyards…
Valera, the happy face on the label, is the family winemaker for the San Isidro estate in Murcia, Spain within the Bullas D.O. The importer wanted to show his face, because he is the picture of what is happening in this small and nearly unknown region of Spain. Never heard of it? There may be a reason….
“From one of the poorest and least known regions of España, Bullas has lagged behind the notoriety of neighboring region, Jumilla, which has become famous in recent years due to plantings by high-profile wine companies (Jorge Ordonez). However, Bullas is superiorly “high and dry,” and has older vines on average. As a result Juan Garcia Valera is able to make absolutely delightful Monastrell (Mourvèdre) from vines as old as 60 years, and as high as 2,100 feet above sea level!
Although he is a fourth generation winemaker, Valera does not own a cellar–he can’t afford it. Instead, he bottles his wine at the local co-operative, the same way his family always has. What has changed, is that all grapes, which are picked by hand, are placed into small baskets, and the Valeras are now separating their crus into different, small tanks for maximum control and expression of terroir. It is this type of innovation that caught our attention. When combined with the extreme conditions that these vines thrive under–they can literally go years without rain–it is no wonder that this stressed fruit produces wines as complex as a 90-foot root system.
Indeed, one of the ironies of winemaking is that old vines can taste so fresh–those who really know, believe that “freshness” is not only a style, but an illusion, based on intense mineral composition. The theory goes that the minerals provide a base, a slightly earthen foundation, on which the freshness of the young fruit is delivered, strengthening and prolonging the finish. Without this base, the freshness breaks down more quickly, and dissipates on the palate. The end result is the impression of brighter fruits and greater freshness, when in fact, it is the foundation–and the juxtaposition against it–that we taste. Such is the journey with San Isidro’s wine. It is bright and fruity, but comfortable and experienced, like a great Glenn Miller big-band dance tune. We believe Juan’s wine will be a thing of beauty for many vintages to come.” – Small Vineyards Imports
I happen to agree, and am glad to get a bargain from an up and coming wine region as well as a family owned wine estate!! For more information on the estate click here…
Wine Tasting Notes…
2008 Valera, Monastrell, D.O. Bullas : “After four generations of winemaking, Valera and his son Juan, Jr. are redefining rural Spain by crafting truly world-class wines from their half century old Monastrell vines. Known in France as Mourvedre, this Monastrell is rich, structured, and bold. The wine has aromas of smoke, blackberries and exotic spices. Perfectly pairs with Manchego cheese, olive tapenade and herb-crusted meats off the grill.”
Finca el Tesso is the lifework of Ángel Martínez Paiva, owner/winemaker/enologist/vineyard manager/chief bottle washer. He and 5 other members of the Paiva family run the estate and have done so for five generations! Their family’s passion shows in wines that are both elegant & feminine as well as powerful & intense.
“The Ribera del Guadiana D.O. is not famous–at least not yet–but one winemaker in this quasi-anonymous zone is quietly making some of the best, fresh-style Tempranillo in Spain. Ask any local and they all know Ángel Paiva, the charismatic owner/winemaker of Finca el Tesso. A true family affair, five different members of the Paiva family run the estate, all in different roles, and have done so for five generations!
Established in 1876, the Paiva farm is large in terms of land, as they grow many agricultural products, including some of the most viscous, powerful olive oil one will ever taste. “Finca el Tesso” is the name of their finest cru. Here, they grow familiar varietals, as well as Graciano, a rare varietal that–when in the hands of an expert–absolutely blossoms in the glass; at the moment, they are using it primarily as a blending grape.
As for their stunning Tempranillo, it is nothing short of a celebration of fresh fruit. Delicate, yes; ripe, yes; juicy, yes, yes, yes! And, in case one doubts, Paiva’s wines are also wonderfully complex, from vines as old as a half a century. Simply put, a “young” Tempranillo simply doesn’t get much better. Hailing from the region of Extremadura, the estate is in rural Western Spain, where the local joke is that there are more sheep than people (but the cheese is fantastic). When compared with other wines from the region, the wines of Finca el Tesso are remarkably elegant–powerful, but polished. These are not pulpy wines in a marmalade style, but taut, stylish, and even feminine, with focus, length, and intensity.” – Small Vineyard Imports
For more information on the estate click here…
Wine Tasting Notes…
2008 Finca El Tesso, Tempranillo, Ribera del Guadiana D.O. : “The Finca El Tesso Tempranillo has a deep purple/ruby color and is nearly opaque. Initially there is an interesting nose of black berries, lead pencil and unexpected, fresh apples and pears. In the mouth the surprise continues showing fresh black cherry, plum, graphite, some burnt rubber and Autumn fruits. There are a medium amount of tannins and subtle acidity that contribute to the interesting profile. As the evening progressed, the decanted wine went through a very noticeable metamorphosis of flavor, aroma and overall character that left us amazed of the transformation. The aromas of apples and pears disappeared and were replaced by prune, fig, stewed prunes, licorice, chocolate nibs and burnt cedar.” Read more…
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